Antonio Galloni: “The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of weightless finesse.”

We are very grateful to Messers Antonio Galloni and Robert Parker for their very kind words about our 2005 Brunello di Montalcino and about my father Fabrizio Bindocci and me. Herewith is Mr. Galloni's review of the wine and his score of 93/100 points.

Tenuta Il Poggione 2005 Brunello di Montalcino 93 points

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of weightless finesse. Elegant and refined throughout, the wine offers up dark wild cherries, minerals, menthol and spices. The 2005 naturally lacks the sheer stuffing and richness of the finest years, but it has just enough density to balance the tannins nicely all the way through to the round, enveloping finish. I was a little surprised Il Poggione has decided to bottle a Riserva in 2005 as the addition of that juice would have almost certainly strengthened this wine, perhaps considerably. That said, this is another of the 2005 Brunellos that has come along beautifully in bottle over the last few months. The 2005 is a terrific Brunello to drink while some of the more important vintages like the 2004 mature in the cellar. In 2005 the harvest began on the 20th of September and finished on the 10th of October. Production was down roughly 25% in 2005 because of the challenging weather that year. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. 

Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci are on a roll. Il Poggione remains a benchmark property for fine, traditionally made Brunellos capable of ageing exquisitely. I can’t think of too many properties in the world producing wines of this level at these prices with an established track record going back 40+ years. I tasted an extraordinary range of wines at the estate in January 2010, including all of the Brunellos and Riservas in cask from vintages 2005-2009. Fans of this venerable estate have a lot to look forward to in coming years. As of this writing the most promising vintage in barrel appears to be 2006. The Brunellos are fermented with the submerged cap method, a traditional style of vinification that is common in Piedmont, but not in Montalcino. The wines are subsequently aged in French oak casks, with the Riserva seeing a higher percentage of newer oak. Unfortunately, the 2008 Rosso had not been bottled as we went to press, but I look forward to tasting that wine in the near future.

—Antonio Galloni, "The Wine Advocate", April 2010

Herewith are the other scores and reviews by Mr. Galloni to whom we are very thankful for his kind attention and consideration.

Tenuta Il Poggione 2004 Brunello di Montalcino
Riserva Vigna Paganelli 96 points

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli emerges from the glass with masses of scorched earth, leather, tar, licorice, menthol and dark fruit. The Riserva shows a touch more inner sweetness, richness and depth in its fruit than the regular bottling, plus a bit more French oak as well. For now, the Riserva is quite reticent and requires air, but with time its awesome richness and power come through in spades. This dark, brooding and authoritative Riserva from Il Poggione is simply gorgeous. Readers who don’t want to pay the premium for the Riserva in 2004 need not worry; I tasted the 2004 regular bottling (twice!) while preparing this article and it is every bit as promising as my review last year suggested. In 2004 the Paganelli vineyard was harvested on the 13th of October, quite late for this estate. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

—Antonio Galloni, "The Wine Advocate", April 2010

Tenuta Il Poggione 2004 Brunello di Montalcino 95 points

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is awesome. This finessed, regal Brunello flows onto the palate with seamless layers of perfumed fruit framed by silky, finessed tannins. The wine remains extremely primary at this stage, and its full range of aromas and flavors have yet to emerge, but the sheer pedigree of this Brunello is unmistakable. The elegant, refined finish lasts an eternity, and subtle notes of menthol, spices, licorice and leather add final notes of complexity. The estate’s 2004 Brunello is a wine to buy and bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. Brunello is never inexpensive, but this is the real deal, and in relative terms, it is one of the world’s great values in fine, cellar worthy wine. Incredibly, there are 18,000+ cases of the 2004 Brunello, so it should be fairly easy to source in various markets. The Brunello is made from four vineyards ranging from 250 to 400 meters in altitude, all in Sant’Angelo in Colle. The wines from the various vineyards were aged separately in French oak casks prior to being assembled and bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.

I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. Readers who want to experience first-class Sangiovese from Montalcino won’t want to miss these exceptional wines. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world.

—Antonio Galloni, "The Wine Advocate", June 2009

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