“One could drink it if one had to with a thick steak”: new reviews of 2004 Brunello di Montalcino by Il Poggione

Bistecca
 
One of the most classic pairing for Brunello di Montalcino is “bistecca alla fiorentina”, Florentine beefsteak, a Porterhouse cut of beef butchered from the Tuscan “Chianina” breed of cattle. The steak above is served at the Trattoria il Pozzo in our village Sant’Angelo in Colle that lies across the piazza from our house. The steak is seared on the bone and then on either side and then is served “al sangue”, blood rare, dressed with a little bit of extra virgin olive oil. 
 
We were very glad to see wine writer Kyle Phillips review of our 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. Thank you Kyle! 

Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, with depth coming from deft slightly greenish bitter accents. Quite young, but also articulate and has quite a bit to say. Interesting things. On the palate it’s full and rich, with powerful bright tart berry fruit supported by ample tannins that still have a degree of anger to them, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It’s very nice, but not really ready yet — one could drink it if one had to with a thick steak, but it will show much better in 5 years, and even better in 15. Impressive, for the future.

But at Il Poggione we also like to pair our Brunello with stewed “cinghiale”, wild boar like the one we have for lunch in our estate’s “mensa”:
Cinghiale
We are also very glad to read James Suckling review of our wine in the Wine Spectator. Thank you, Mr. Suckling!
Il Poggione Brunello
di Montalcino 2004

Has blackberry and coffee bean, with a hint of cream on the
nose. Full-bodied and tight, with slightly austere and chewy tannins, but there
is pretty, ripe fruit underneath it all. Best after 2010. 16,665 cases made.
–JS

Score: 91

Be it bistecca alla fiorentina or be it cinghiale, we think that our 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a good wine for drinking now and for putting down in the cellar. It will age very well. If one had to drink it now, it will also be very good.

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