True to the Roots
By Thomas Caestecker
Tasting Panel, December 2013
A deft balance of innovation and tradition allows Il Poggione to stand out in Montalcino.
The aspect of tradition is so axiomatic in Italian winemaking that, for some in the industry, it might produce a bit of obstinacy. This can be true for both government authorities loath to tweaking regulations, or insistent and stubborn vintners who cling to a hard line.
Alessandro Bindocci, winemaker for the famed Montalcino-based Il Poggione (along with his winemaking father, Fabrizio), is not bound by intractability. To be sure, he’s reverent toward the example of his father and Tenuta Il Poggione’s historic mastery of Brunello. But Bindocci is always on the cutting edge of both enology and technology — and not merely because his trusty smartphone monitors the minutiae of the winemaking process. His blog, Montalcino Report (www.montalcinoreport.com), is unique to the region. He has also introduced cirtical winemaking techniques that have dovetailed nicely with the bevy of traditional practices.