At Tenuta Il Poggione we were very glad to see that the leading Austrian wine magazine and wine guide the Falstaff has included us among its favorite 8 producers of Brunello. Herewith is that which the Falstaff writer has said about the Brunello of Tenuta Il Poggione. We believe it is very interesting to think about how the Brunello has changed and how there are many different styles of Brunello today. Tenuta Il Poggione continues its commitment to a traditional style of the Brunello, aged in large French casks.
Brunello as we love it
Already 200 wineries directly produce their Brunello. Since
it is important to know what are the producers whom for years have made wines
that give the greatest pleasure, we conducted our tasting notes on wines and
tested wineries which have impressed us especially in the last ten years.
Here we present our eight favorite wineries.
Montalcino is less clear than it used to be. There are now
over 200 wineries producing Brunello. Even the professionals are confused. If
you browse the last years, only a handful of companies that produce those wines
that make us dream – that tell the about the wines of Montalcino, this small
town south of Siena, whose walls were once besieged by the troops of Emperor
Charles V, but resisted; wines that feature notes of cherries and plums, soft
and juicy tannins, wines that speak of the land and of their people. The
important factor about the list of our top wineries is that their style – which
is both modern and traditional – is not important. If you read the endless
descriptions and texts of some colleagues about it, we can say that the
Brunello can only be great when it is aged in large oak barrels or – as other
people think – only in barriques. In truth, however, you get great wines over
and above just said, you don’t just need the instruments in the winery, but the
sum of a number of factors – the variety, soil, location, weather conditions,
treatment of the vines, date of harvest, storage technology; of course, the
intuition of the winemaker and his personality are responsible for bringing the
pleasure in a wine.
In our case, there are wines that have been aged exclusively
in barriques, as long as those aged in large oak barrels.
Il Poggione is a winery with a great tradition in
Montalcino. In the owner’s private cellar, one can find old vintages going back
to the Thirties. The estate is located in Sant'Angelo in Colle, a picturesque
village south of Montalcino. A church, several buildings and two restaurants
make an interesting ensemble. You can look far down into the valley of
the Ombrone, behind which you can see the slopes of Mount Amiata. With about
600 hectares, this estate is among the largest wineries of Montalcino. The
current owners, Livia and Leopoldo Franceschi are the fifth generation to lead
the company. In addition to the Franceschis, at Il Poggione there is another
family to have a central role: the Bindoccis. Fabrizio Bindocci is manager and
director of the winery. His father, in turn, had worked at Il Poggione. The
next generation is ready: Alessandro Bindocci studied viticulture and oenology
in Pisa and has already worked for four years at the winery.
The estate has 123 hectares of vineyards, mostly planted
with Sangiovese. The wines of Poggione highlight classic style. After
fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wines are aged in large oak casks.
Since 1996 these are no longer aged in Slavonian oak casks, but French.
<<The Tannins of the Sangiovese become, through French oak, fine and
elegant>> says Bindocci. The results give reason. In fact since 1998, the
Poggione Brunello is dense and fine.
Great is the Brunello Riserva, which, in addition to the
2003 vintage, shows the vineyard name Vigna Paganelli. It is powerful, deep,
with the fruits of the South, but fresh and juicy – a classic wine
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2005 90 Points
Bright ruby red. Nose very clean and accessible with aromas
of cherries, supported by notes of violet. The palate is fresh and juicy,
showing intense notes of cherry, with a very good length.
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 – Vigna
Paganelli – 93 Points
Bright ruby red and intense. Notes of cherry, raspberry and
rosemary. Juicy and soft, showing fine-grained tannins. Very elegant, with
juicy cherry finish.